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Here are the measurments for U7800, the coils. L7823: Pin 1 is correct but pin 2 is unstable at .3 then drops to .2. L7824: Does the exact same thing as L7823. L7810: .8 both sides. L7812: .836 both sides. L7811: Pin 1: .843, Pin 2: .836. L7809: .751 both sides. L7808: .751 both sides...

It is not turning on now. I see the 1 LED on the motherboard but yesterday I was able to get it in to DFU mode with ease. Since I did all the revives/restores, I cannot get it to power on anymore.

Nope, U1200 is getting hot and so is the processor. I was able to get it in to DFU mode but no matter if I do a revive, restore, update, erase, it never works. I get to step 4/4 and it gets about 35% of the way there, then you hear the fan spin super fast (seems like it may be restarting?), then...

My reference only: TT9851 iMac came in with no power. We live in Florida so the customer thinks lightning. At first I thought the power supply was the issue, so I replaced this, I could hear the capacitors making a constant but quiet whining noise. New power supply came in, this did not fix...

My reference only: REF1144 History: Board had liquid damage but I have cleaned it up. Problem: No S5 other than when I first plug in the charger, it goes real fast, but looks like the voltage jumps up to 3v, then quickly drops. I never get anything else after that. I have already replaced...

Nope, I just checked all the SSD voltages and G3S once more, all were present, but in addition to this, Q3501 and QB701 looked like it could of had some debris/corrosion setting in. I reflowed with hot air and Amtech flux. Finally stuck the motherboard back in its shell, it was again in recovery...

Plugged it in, it was again in recovery mode. Placed it in DFU, did a Restore, it worked! Oh, I also placed the heatsink back on, not sure if this helped much, thank you so very much again!

Yes on all. I am going to try another DFU with each revive, restore, and update to see what happens now. I did see a couple areas of concern that may have needed flux/reflow. If none of these work I will try the ROM. Thank you very much!

Yes, I was successfull upon doing this already. Sorry I may not have made that clear. Each time I was able to get it back in to DFU mode and each time I did so before trying each revive, restore, and update, got the above photoed error when attempting this.

My reference: TT9832 Board History: A very tiny amount of corrosion was found on C9034 (PP1V8_SSD1 shorted and replaced capacitor), and CA780 was corroded and replaced. Problem: Anything with S5 in it, I do not get, I do however get all the PP power rails, SLP and AWAKE rails. Board is...

I am sorry, where am I supposed to be seeing these secondary rails at on the schematics? I figured I should be using the FCT on page 83. I am used to seeing the Power Aliases in the table of contents.

My reference only: REF1132 No history on board other than no power when it came in. 5v on meter, no amps drawing. I replaced U7000 twice, PPBUS_G3H is flucuating between 1.2v, drops to .933v, then back to 1.2v, and it repeats this consistently.

My reference only: REF1135 Board history: Liquid damage, around J8500 there was heavy rust, parts were off. I have replaced what parts I do believe I need to at least get an image on an external monitor but no go. USB meter shows 20v, and when I place it in to it's shell it does pull .79 amps...

C3508 had a short, replaced it and still stuck at 5v. I also replaced U3100 once more since there was scraping around it from me trying to get the underfill up. Wanted to make certain no traces were damaged. DFU Mode: Not able to get it in to this. Have not tried to force it though. I did notice...

My reference only: TT9775 Board history: No liquid damage, customer states they charged their phone like the always have done and went to go use the computer the next day and it would not turn on. USB meter intermittently shows 20v, but most often it is at 5v. If rotate/flip the meter around...

Looks like this got it. I ended up using a 5.6k resistor, thank you! Now I just found it is locked down with an Apple ID. ¡Ay, caramba!

The problem was R7022! Thank you so very much, you are a God! Very much appreciated!

C7020: 3.6 C7023: 186.5

Trace appears fine, my tweezers I think may have pulled up a small area of the board but continuity is all there, and everything seems level. I stuck another new U7000 chip down. Placed the 2 fuses back in place, but still no more than 5.14v from the meter. What next?

My mistake, I have never had to do that before, I am ignorant on this way of measuring. Which pin would I place these on, or does that matter? As I look closely, it appears there may be a broken trace going from pin 2 of C7020 to the U7000 chip. Going to lift U7000 and check it out.