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PP1v8 was shorted due to internal board short i THINK I successfully resolved. 1v8 is present and stable. Damage was extremely localized thankfully. I think that's all good, hall sensor isn't even populated right now, i plan on running wires, not using internal traces. ==== Its behavior now...

820-01700 presented with no obvious damage. Customer says wouldn't wake from sleep one day. This is the board with the "left side SSD controller corrosion problem", so I looked there first and found the smallest of evidence of the usual corrosion *beginning* to occur. I saw just a little bit...

Problem: Without battery any usb port pushes 20v @.07mA then immediately drops to .05mA for about 20 seconds. Reboots and repeats. With battery, creeps up to 800mA and battery inductor "lights up" under thermal cam. Reboots after 20s again. I removed U4901, as it took a lot of damage. Still...

Other tech ultrasonic'd this and it worked first try, video ok etc. Customer came to get it and ofc it's not working. Found bad R8178 that was keeping 3v3_s0 missing, measured in the Megaohms (and possibly Q8131), replaced now get fan spin. Found traces near SMC chewed through, jumpered them...

Replaced U9850, same behavior.

DIode Mode, red on ground: EDP_AUX both @ .398 EDP_INT_ML_N<0-3> @ .342 every other pin seems ok too SMC Pullups fine (r5351/r5350) I have many spare mux chips of course. U gotta keep these in stock lol. Will report back!

Not entirely sure of history, no water damage visible anywhere. Tried the usual SMC/PRAM reset. Bare board boots ok to OS on external. Screen seems detected, EDP_PANEL_PWR_EN is high as is DP_INT_HPD and SMC_LID. I can't make out an image but I seldom can with these. I looked under the scope...

Post #6 ;)

Nope. And also my 3v3 g3h is missing/held down

Yeah I think some got under there. The CPU sorta just asks itself to be enabled when all the conditions are met right?

Doesn't seem to want to go to DFU, even using DFU force pads. Immediately settles at 5v .0045A draw now. Does not fluctuate, now doesn't get to 20V no matter how long. I hate apple.

I'm repairing a MacBook Air. The 16 hosts apple configurator 2, I was trying to revive the Air board using the 16 lol. The battery seems good. Battery LED illuminates and my ammeter reports 2amps being sucked into battery.

Tried revive 2x on a brand new 16" w/ monterey. Seems to complete, then i get a reboot and a lock symbol on the bad device's DFU icon. CPU still no volt

I will try revive. No voltage on any phase, 1.8v on L7400

Did a swap, i hate these batteries. Same deal with known good batt. It pulls 5v .0063 A but SOMETIMES it grabs 20v and sticks at 100ma with either battery, connected or disconnected. I leave it connected for 20 mins and it'll negotiate eventually. Though now it won't. Tempted to put it in a...

Battery seems deadish. 200ma at c6960 pin 1. Is there a way to measure before the battery fets or do i just swap

Water damage near Q7660/Q7680 (p5vg3s and 3v3_g3h). Replaced obviously bad ones, lifted the fets/cleaned pads. Every power is present but CPUVCC and screen/backlight as far as I can tell, even lid signals. Not stuck in DFU, had to force DFU using keycombos to make sure. Just "macintosh" in...

Came in with no damage seen, both sides of board and case. Powered on as soon as I put my ammeter in, pulled 20v booted just fine, was charging battery etc. Chalked it up to bad luck and put it back together, now it doesn't work again. Now it pulls only .063A and does not loop boot. 1v5 LDO...

No battery/charger. Just bare board, did not power up. I'll reball and place again

Got replacement chips. After putting new chip on the board, 2.5 is 0 ohms to ground on pins 14,18,22 and L9081. Thinking I messed up the job I removed the chip, cleaned the pads again, confirmed no short now, and used a second chip. 2.5 switch is still 0 ohms to ground. I've never measured...