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Nailed it--thanks, duke. That was a very un-fun repair...nearly every line was broken under connector, so had to run wires and such small amount of pad to solder to. Ran 'em all through to the front and connected appropriately and all is well--thanks, Duke!
Working on an 820-3330 that's killing me.
1. Board originally had no audio--greyed out icon, etc. Headphones worked, but only the right earbud (checked several pairs).
2. Removed R6805/spdif and audio returned and worked via internal speakers, but headphones didn't work at all now (no detection...
I'll be damned, I've never, ever noticed that latch before. Taken apart a hundred of these, and have just been plucking the cables up. Jesus Christ, this seems like a case of over-engineering. Thanks, duke.
Hey Duke, I replaced the vcore power supplies with new ones as we discussed, and am having trouble making the units crash...which could be a good thing. I've replaced them on 3 boards so far and no issues, but again, I'm not sure how best to test them. Maybe just sell them and let the customers...
Yes, also occurs with 2015 models (00138, 00426, 00163). Have confirmed it on multiple.
If we could somehow find a way to reliable make these things crash, it would be sooo helpful in trying to find a solution. I've got 5 in test cases that I've been trying to force to fail, and of course now...
I don't like to clean boards before repairing them, but you can if you want. If the liquid damage is spot/minor, then I don't clean. If you see liquid across the board or in 4-5 spots, then cleaning it won't hurt. I repair, then clean last.
Fan does not spin on this model when it powers on, just fyi.
Definitely clean up the area you mentioned was 'ugly', then check for shorts across all rails (probably s3/s0 in this case) if you do in fact have a pulsing rail(s).
Is there a way to remove these cables without constantly bending the metal end "clips" inside the connector? It's pretty annoying having to press them back down into place whenever we remove a cable from one of these units. They seem to get caught on the "barbs" on the cable itself no matter how...
Got a large shipment of decommissioned corporate units, and one of the boards is throwing all sorts of GPU-related die sensor failures: TG0D, TG0P, TG1D, Th1H, Th2H. All are reading "-124 degrees" in ASD EFI. Not good. Replaced U5850 just to see if that helped, but it didn't. Unit actually runs...
This board has thoroughly kicked my ass. I'm pretty comfortable with this type of issue, but this one I fear may have a CPU issue...
1. No video, no backlight. I do think the board had liquid at some point based on the eDP connector, but it must have been minor because no corrosion on any caps...
Still a short somewhere, maybe 3v3 or 5v rail, board is cycling...if you found all that other stuff damaged/killed, this one might have several issues. Was this liquid or bad charger?
Interesting, that's good to know--thanks, duke.
On a related note (sort of): Do you have any tips for pulling CPUs on these boards? I know it's a pain in the ass, but I'm going to start playing around with a new BGA station we bought and was curious if you had any pointers about the Air/retina...
I received a huge shipment of boards from a company who cleans the hell out of their boards (no board repair knowledge, they simply toss boards into a cleaner if there's *any* sign of liquid, from one drop to one gallon). I'm going through and checking for shorted CPUs first, to save some time...
I have a customer who sends us ~5 boards/units per week. He told me that he sold a 2014 Mac Mini to a customer who brought it back several days later saying it wouldn't power on. They replaced the power supply on the unit (I'm unfamiliar with the Minis, as we don't typically service them, but am...
Bad RAM slot, most likely the bottom one. Unrelated to keyboard repair or battery, just a common failure on this model. Probably works fine until they move the unit, and it will get worse (until slot no longer works at all--three beeps, etc; assuming they deal with the inconvenience until it...
That's true, but at the same time, you've got to experiment and get some actual experience in soldering different components, different boards, using different tips, etc. Nothing replaces experimenting and really getting a feel for how these things behave under different circumstances. Can't...
Also keep in mind that if liquid hit that SPI ROM chip, it could be damaged...and symptoms would be very similar to what you describe. Swap over another chip (just for testing!) once you address the obviously damaged stuff.