For $29/mo, we provide access to advanced level technicians who will answer your questions on any Macbook board related matter to the best of their knowledge promptly & walk you through how to solve your problem so you can deliver a working board to your customer.
I ohm checked the two SDA lines to JP600
I2C_DISP_BKLT_SCL
I2C_DISP_BKLT_SDA
(good)
.
the SDA lines make good contact with JP600 The resistors on those lines. RP850-RP853 are all good. Not sure what else I can check here.
I will get out the scope.
Is the PMIC married to the board like a T2?
I change chips like this all the time on ipads. Ipad 8th gen PMIC is common and I pop them on and off in 5 minutes.
I just don't want to stencil one to find out they are married. I am not able to split ball these. Too many balls just a little too big
Was given to me as "no image"
LP679 melt down and UP700 smoked!
After the repair I got image but no back light.
Trouble shooting no back light.
UP800 / swapped
BKLT_EN_R 1.8v
BKLT_SD 12V "not pulling down" Resistors checked.
QP800 tested / swapped.
power rails present.
I have Isolated...
U8100 was damaged due to water damage. I did not find CPU shorts but who knows. No water under U8100 but damage to a few caps in the area.
Unit would not engage 20v
I pulled U8100 in an attempt to split ball it which was unsuccessful. So I need a replacement. I don't trust the one I have...
Just thought I would share this info for the board.
I worked on a apple M1 Air today that came in for a cracked screen.
Unit would not switch to 20v.
Pulled the heat sink and looked under thermal and discovered the PMIC for the CPU U7700 was getting hot on the bottom center section...
I did. No physical signs of damage. Passives are all good. No water damage.
I probably need to put a scope on it. U3900 I am sure is bad. I wish we could change these
I have seen this problem on air boards so I figured it was just the 5v missing. It wasn't.
so I diode tested against my reference board L8502 and L8503. Readings were a little high compared to my reference board. .7 instead of .5 so I replaced U8502 and that didn't work.
Just to be sure...
Well that was excellent advice. I was not sure what data line was actually the "click" Thanks so very much! I was able to feel confident enough to tear out the battery and track pad all over again to replace it once more. I must of had a bad trackpad. These models are crazy hard to change...
They suck! between T2 failures, and CPU failures I am about to give up and fix something else.
Am I just stupid? Are you guys having the same kind of luck I am?
It seems like I just take them apart. Total them and put them back together while making "FN ZERO $$$$$$$"
I put this one away after a few hours. Unit had water damage and a PP3V42 short which I repaired only to find out that the "click" does not work on the track pad. I have to use a external mouse. I thought the track pad probably got wet so I pulled the glued in battery and the track pad...
This was a liquid damaged machine but no liquid damage was on LB. Left ports were replaced.
The left USB-C ports do not communicate USB data but do charge the unit.
None of the zener diodes are damaged on the data lines and the fault covers both left ports.
Looking at the schematics I see...
I get a quick bounce about every 3 seconds.
rails are good
no shorts on cpu/pch
charge resistors are good.
I do get a cpu_vcore good signal.
Using the scope I do see data activity on bios but it's very brief and not normal.
it starts the read but does not pull full blocks. I have no problems...
I have verified the power rails are present.
unit sill not recognize on board HD.
No shorts, no hot spots, All the SSD rails are normal.
My next option would be to pull NANDs and test.
Question before I start that. Can I replace these? Is there some magic apple drama preventing me...