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No water damage. No physical damage. Unit will turn on. then reset. I can get it into DFU mode and it acts like it's recovering then resets. I can put it into recovery and select my wifi. and it will stay on as long as I leave it there but if I enter the wifi and continue it starts to...

Well... When I get ahold of a junk board to harvest one I will try it and let you guys know. If anyone has experience with changing these please let me know. Any of the MacBook with integrated Wi-Fi / Bluetooth chips. Are any of them replaceable?

Hello, I have a fun one. I have a 820-02020 that suffered a small surge due to water damage. I have repaired most of the damage and came to the last part that died and it was the RF chip UL000. I pulled that chip and I now have a booting logic board. (without UL000) installed. Question...

This is totally depressing!

Seems the new M1 Air's are no different than their previous models. The backlight power is right next to LPDT_INT data lines that run straight to the M1. I total so many new MacBook logic boards for water damage or surges that find their way to the T2 or the processor it is depressing. Am I...

CD3217 failure. Still no 20V I am sure the T2 is smoked but is there any way to tell before I go to the trouble of replacing this IC? As these are now jailbroken is there a way to change out the T2 and repair problems like this?

quick tap at any point freezes it. I can power cycle the machine by holding and duplicate at will I can remove power and power on with mag safe. And when it boots up if I quick tap the power button it's frozen If I don't touch it that machine runs fine.

The power button works. If you press it you turn on the machine. If you hold it you turn off the machine. >> if you quick press it << you freeze the machine and lock it up. My guess is I have a CPU FET problem but I don't have much experience with these older machines.

A little off topic but want it to hit the traffic zone. I have been totaling ipad 7s at the rate of 5/day due to CPU problems. Apple needs to own this!

we got them in DFU. Force resetting them and rocking them out.

I have 100 of these laptops that showed up at my door. They appear to power on and pull current and charge the battery. No display. Power rails are present. I was unable to get them into DFU. Ideas?

Well split balling a donor for U1200 went perfectly. "I was lucky" replaced the damaged CD3215. My shorts are all gone. Board still does not switch to 20V and the only thing glowing in thermal is the (T2)! So unless I can change a T2 I am toast!

>>>>>> UPDATE <<<<<<< Charging did not work. Had to change the SMC again!

It was a total accident. I have dozens of SMC's reballed and ready for use but wasn't paying attention when I grabbed the wrong one.

What should I check before I even attempt changing it

I know. have you seen this before?

820-01041 5v does not switch to 20v U3200 (CD3215) gets hot (thermal imaging) regardless of port used. Upon close inspection I discover that there is residue around ball 91 on U3200 indicating that a surge has probably taken place. Diode checking L3200 indicates both the USB2_UPC_XB N & P are...

AND IT WORKD PERFECTLY!! Just thought I would share that info with all of you

lol your not reading these very closely are you?

no. IT won't pull the 12v down the pull down signal is missing PPVOUT_S0 Backlight is of course zero L8400 PP5V_G3S is present. (Diode test) 0.3 forward 1.0 backward "little odd" compared to test boards "I do not have a known working one" I did swap Q8401 as well Tried my LCD test...