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Board is clean. No history available. I'll guess it could have been dropped. It doesn't want to load OS. Stops at loading bar at the very end. Something holding it back.

PP3V3_S5 ---------- 3.3V PP3V3_SUS ------- 3.3V PM_RSMRST_L -- 3.3V I haven't triggered SMC_ONOFF only because I've found R7202 broken, along with its trace. (Even though I don't see how that would make prior stuff not work) There is no pulse at PM_SLP_S4_L. JohnB8812 PPBUS_G3H is 12.56V...

Board was water damaged. Fixed a couple of parts to get ISL working. The rest I have cleaned with iso. PPBUS_G3H -------------------------------- 12.56V PP3V42 --------------------------------------- 3.42V PP5V_S5 ------------------------------------- 5V PP3V3_S5...

Fired up thermal again and took another look. Oddly enough, C9680 (PP3V3_S5) was shorted. Replaced it, laptop works good. Thanks. Mark as solved please.

Should be as same as the last post.

Board is clean, PPBUS_G3H and PP3V42 present. Took a visual on the board and it looks pristine, except that I've found discolored Q3880 and C3895 had solder balls around. Then started going through power rails to see what is present and found that PP3V3_S5 gives 0V or is dead shorted 0 Ohms...

I've got an original charger. PP3V3_S5_AVREF_SMC back to its normal state. C5021 was bad and replaced with new one. Everything else works now. Thanks! Mark as solved please.

"A/BMON sensor output voltage" while it's on? I gotta grab another keyboard to turn it on then. R7121/22 and R7151/52 measure good, including pins on ISL. On PP3V3_S5_AVREF_SMC I get 16 Ohms. (Marked in attached picture) Doesn't sound right? It leads back to U5110, which is responsible for...

I've disconnected everything. Should it start automatically when charger is connected?

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History: - water damage (I don't know how much), but 2 red marks are visible (1 removed though) - SMC area was reflowed (glue not completely removed) - PPBUS_G3H is 8.57V - PP3V42 is 3.43V - battery shows 35% health, no water damage visible, could be just worn battery (forgot exactly how many...

I don't have USB-C meter. I guess I have to get that one first. As for the board, I've got enough time with it, even to order and wait for new components. I have to get the UC too...

LCD connector looks pristine. Controller chips too. That area is safe.

So, this is my first Touchbar. I was hoping something "easier" would pop out, but it is what it is. As for history, water went through keyboard. 12 pictures are attached where corrosion was found. I still haven't done my homework on newer Macbooks, so I was hoping if this one could be a "noob"...

How are the experiences with new chips? Anyone had luck resolving the issue?

So to replace U7310/20/30 best is to use them from other donor board, is that what you're saying?

Happy new year to everyone! Health first, then everything else. As for this board, I've been reading in forums that these could be "just" bad design. Is there anything that I could measure/diagnose in order to see what is going on? Honestly, I haven't got the board out yet, but I'll inspect...

Battery removed without heat and iso. Thanks all for tips! Mark as solved. P.S. I've replied earlier to this thread as "Mark solved", but apparently those attack on forums(?) took out some latest comments out.

I tried another trackpad and now both trackpad and keyboard are working. In settings, there is no trackpad found. Should I worry about it? To change trackpad, I need to remove the battery. Can it be removed with a hot gun or should I opt for a better option?

This one has touchpad corroded, which yet has to be replaced. As for the keyboard, it only reacts to power on off button. PP3V42_G3H_TPAD and PP3V3_S4_TPAD are present. Tried another keyboard, didn't work. Can this model work without touchpad connected? I'd like to get the keyboard working for...