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Thanks 2informaticos, Turns out my soldering was crappy. :) The feedback pins on U7701 weren't touching properly. Mark Solved please.

Return lines being R7717 to R7722? They're all OL. Unless I'm measuring wrong somehow.

No sign of backlight, just a picture. D7701::1 = 8.59 D7701::2 = 8.55

Q7706 ::1 = 8.59 ::2 = 8.59 ::3 = 2.86 ::4 = 8.59 ::5 = 8.59 ::6 = 8.59 Q7707 ::1 = g ::2 = 3.3 ::3 = 0 ::4 = 0 ::5 = 3.3 ::6 = 0

Every pin on U7701 beeped out okay. Will replace it and measure Q7706.

Thanks Louis, How can I check the switch trace? Is that pin 5 continuity to D7701? I pulled the LED Driver off again and pin5 has continuity to D7701.

Just getting back to this job now. PRAM reset already done, there is definitely a picture on the screen, just no backlight. Will measure BKL_EN again from a few different places to see what it definitely is.

Just came back to this board. I ended up running flux under the SMC again and heating until it was dancing around with the air. Board gets a picture again and charges a battery. Mark solved please.

::18 has 3.3v and ::14 sits at 2.6V (This is with a screen) What should BKL_EN @ R7731 be? I'm getting 4mV and at C7712 I get 8.59. (which becomes BKL_EN via R7731 right?) I'll remove the LED driver and check all the traces if needed, but would prefer not to waste the chip if possible. Serves...

0.580v @ C8317::1

Take that back. Batteries just died in DMM. EDP_PANEL_PWR = 3.3

Liquid damage all around U7701 and pin 3 & 4 on J8300 was 8.6v. Made me think LED Driver was dead. Swapped it out and same behaviour. BKL_EN = 3.1 BKL_PWM = 3.1

I swapped out the IT8585 for another and all is well. Thanks for helping with this one everyone.

I've already replaced U5010. Just sent a ton of flux under SMC and seems to be working again. We'll just have to see for how long. Thanks Duke. Edit: board is braindead now. This repair hasn't gone to plan. :'(

I just powered it on before and noticed the IT8585E chip you mentioned gets blistering hot. Another ASUS board here I compared with, it stays cold on. Guess that's the first thingy to swap out. Is there firmware on them?

Just getting back to this repair now; Where do you suggest I go with it? The power switch has 3.3v and goes low when pressed. If I put power onto the LID_SW the board boots up. Could it be thinking the lid is always closed?

It seems to be moving up and down freely, as if there is a pull up or pull down resistor missing. dukefawks I was just looking at this board closely and I noticed the green light appears to be flashing really quickly.

SMC_RESET_L seems to be floating.

Sorry, I meant U7000. BIL looks spotless. I have replaced U7000 and everything worked as expected for 10 of 15 minutes then slowly deteriorated back to the original behaviour. I can swap it again, but would rather not tear through all my U7000s. Originally when I removed U7000, diode on SDA...

That sucks. I have only worked on two or three of the newer models so far.