This board came with liquid damage on the ports side, the flex and the connector (port A portion) on the board were burned and shorting the 20V rail.
I Replaced the flex and the connector on the board and the short went from the 20V rail. The laptop boots ans charges.
However when charging the battery from port B, I noticed a burning hot Q3200 I replaced it with one from A1708 and no more issue.
Now my issue is with the charger, it works only on one and same side on both usb-c ports. I tried another charger and the same thing.
I think more of J3300 soldering. One raw corresponding to either the bottom side or the top side is probably not making contact.
This time, I wanted to try to solder the whole connector with it's gold brackets with hot air... Usually I disassemble first the gold brackets, I solder the inner pins and then I clip back the brackets and solder them...
I may have to adapt the temperature and find what works well without melting J3300, otherwise I will just revert back to my first method.
What method works well for you when soldering usb-c connectors?
Thanks!
I Replaced the flex and the connector on the board and the short went from the 20V rail. The laptop boots ans charges.
However when charging the battery from port B, I noticed a burning hot Q3200 I replaced it with one from A1708 and no more issue.
Now my issue is with the charger, it works only on one and same side on both usb-c ports. I tried another charger and the same thing.
I think more of J3300 soldering. One raw corresponding to either the bottom side or the top side is probably not making contact.
This time, I wanted to try to solder the whole connector with it's gold brackets with hot air... Usually I disassemble first the gold brackets, I solder the inner pins and then I clip back the brackets and solder them...
I may have to adapt the temperature and find what works well without melting J3300, otherwise I will just revert back to my first method.
What method works well for you when soldering usb-c connectors?
Thanks!