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Please upload the original BIOS from the board to have the ME fixed.

Crap under WiFi module? Was there corrosion near it?

Transplanting the NANDs and controller + ROM sucks balls as they are underfilled. You may be better off trying to replace the CPU first before going the NAND route. But then you have the underfilled RAM next to the CPU too. Unless you can charge $600+ for this I would run away. Don't waste a...

Boot it up with an external LCD connected so it is forced to stay on the dGPU. See if problem is still there. Also run diagnostics and see if there are RAM errors.

You'll probably never use it for that. Measuring higher frequencies also runs in to many termination/impedance and ground loop issues that make the displayed measurement garbage unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing. A 100MHz scope is fine for everything you will do with it.

Noticed it too. I suspect it;s the LCDs as the rest is usually OEM parts. Pretty much all A1398 are now like this, A1502 can still be found that are good.

Don't even bother....

Interested, shoot me an email at my username here @gmail.com please. Must not be refurb Apple boards of course!

Order the 6708 from Mouser and be happy :)

Buy a Medusa2 from CMIzapper.com if you want to clean ME yourself and fix Fsys checksum etc.

That chip is fucked. There will be no way to get the SSD to work that I currently know off. For now this board is RIP. No use in buying a chip as the SSD won't work anyway, but if you want to try then go ahead. Board will not power on with the cracked chip at least.

Just bad reball is more likely or a knocked off resistor around the MUX.

I hope you tried another fan too. Run ASD to see if that BIOS you got is really any good. I bet they used the wrong method of "cleaning" the ME. You should really get a programmer and do this yourself.

Trace is simply corroded somewhere.....

How can the ISL cause a high reading between pins 17/18?

VREG5 is probably shorted to GND causing the chip to heat up. Check resistance to GND.

Voltages on J4801 without any load connected can be misleading. I bet L4801-4 one of them is fried and now is a resistor. Check them for resistance, should be close to 0 of course. L4801 being the first suspect as that has always power to it.

5. I can't find a short anywhere; I've checked pp3v3_s5, pp5v_s5, pp3v3_s3, pp5v_s3, pp5v_s0, pp3v3_s0, pp1v05_s5, PPBUS, PP3v42, etc. Couldn't find a short anywhere that might be causing the board to cycle. How did you miss this?

Could be absolutely anything. Vcore being present and dropping off and then staying off is not something to diagnose easily. Do disconnect everything to rule out anything attached to the board is causing this.

Check diode mode readings again on both AUX pins. Inspect the LCD cable closely as many times it has burned between the backlight pin and AUX pin. This will also have destroyed the connector on the board or LCD. Did you use a CBTL type MUX? On some 3787 board alternate part numbers were used...