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Have tested this board in a fully working chassis as well today, no changes.. OK, so out of desperation i backed up all the data first and have done a DFU Restore. The process went pretty normal, however when reinstalling via Internet Recovery it is painfully slow (i suspect the same throttling...

by the way, also checked with R7102 off the board: no change. So it's not U7100 pulling it down

Just realised i do have more of these machines in now.. Have checked on a fully working board and the SMC_PROCHOT_L is low there as well, eventhough that machine is not throttled. Guess i'm barking up the wrong tree here. What can be another reason this thing is so terribly slow?

crap, i don't have a working one in the shop unfortunately at the moment.. any other suggestion maybe..?

Haven't got too much experience with this board, so bear with me. This board came in as no power after some liquid damage to the middle portion of the board (i don't see this often as liquid usually hits the 'wings' on these boards). No Corrosion on the CPU/GPU Area luckily, but only on the...

Sorry to barge in on this post, but can i ask where you found the SoC ROM file? Am needing one as well..

yeah fans are supposed to run upon starting the board

it works on 21inch 2011 models as well.. just solder pin 11 to ground (i usually take apart the SSD, and solder pin 11 to an adjacent ground-pin with some solder-blob, and close the SSD up again) and you should be good to go

Yes, you were right.. disabled the GPU with my Medusa, and the issue is gone.. Dammit, this is a no-fix then.

i should also mention that i have swapped U8900 for another chip from a donor; but unfortunately, the issue remains the same. I have inspected the board for any knocked off components but no dice..

This board came in for the all-too-common U8900 issue: upon arrival the machine worked fine, but would crash once the board switched from Integrated to Dedicated GPU (the typical MUX issue). I have redone the solder on U8900, but after reassembly, the screen is showing distorted/garbled image. I...

If anyone has good tips on how to remove underfill: more than welcome. I watched Tim Herman's video (you're great at that stuff dude) but somehow my underfill-removal always ends up fucking messy. do you guys use heat while removing the underfill? what tools?

alright, it's fixed, i swapped the CD3215 with one i reballed (i used new preballed ones, but apparently they never work as opposed to the ones i get from donors) and the Mac works fine again. Thanks for the support!

OK, so i assume i can try a different CD3215 or check traces to SMC firstly.?

Yes, before replacing the U3200, it would start on all other 3 ports. Now, all ports are asking 5v and using 0.2 amps. I'm going to go over the entire thing once more and keep this thread updated.

OK, just replaced the chip with a new one; now i get 5v on all ports...goddammit

damn. ok im going to try, the underfilled crap on this board is driving me nuts though. I use a Qianli prying tool to remove most of it, but desoldering the chip is darn hard: feels like i'm ripping off the chip rather than desoldering it gently... any tips by any chance?

bump

yes i understand. I power the port corresponding to U3200, it's taking 5V @ 240amps and all LDOs appear except for the 1v1 LDO. Is there anything i should check before starting to replace U3200...?

LDOs are all there, except BMC 1v1 LDO. Does this mean i need to replace the CD3215? It's underfilled, so i'd rather not of course.