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So doesn't respond to keyboard? Did you try boot menu and diagnostic?

Test if you can boot USB macOS, w/ and w/o internal SSD connected.

First of all, welcome to the forum! Did you replace U3100/200 with chips removed from same donor board model? You must also maintain their position...

Check U7100 basic voltages. Also diode mode to ground on battery bus.

Possibly corrosion underneath PCH/CPU too. You can try heating to eliminate it. First check all SPI Bus Termination resistors and their traces to SMC and PCH area. Also check if PLT_RESET_L goes high.

Incorrect PPBUS_G3H voltage; probably no communication between SMC and U7100. Check SMC's basic voltages and signals; already mentioned various times on the forum.

Test it with a battery holding some charge.

"when i connect power there is shot on F5200" Are you checking in diode mode with power applied??? Allow 10-15s once power is removed (including battery), before checking in diode mode, or ohm scale.

Someone said ISL9240 worked instead of RAA489900A6, other people said no. https://boards.rossmanngroup.com/threads/macbook-air-a2681-820-02536-stuck-at-5v-after-liquid-damage.65473/ Always better to use original part! https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005006060008120.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2esp

PPBUS_AON MUST appear first. It supplies all secondary power supplies, including 3V8_AON. Any history available? Did you check diode mode to ground at PPBUS_AON?

May be T2, or SSD failure...

0.032 reading is really bad. Probably nothing get hot injecting voltage. But a good thermal camera may help you. Don't inject more than 6V there; as always, start with just 1V.

You may have problems with power button, caused by corrosion. External switch method is the best option. However not easy in this case, as you don't have pads for SOC_FORCE_DFU. You should find proper points to solder some wires and connect the switch. Also good to use another switch for...

Better to have battery connected; also the trackpad.

If is for data recovery, you can invest some more time on it. Check first if is at least detected in DFU mode.

Several people reported working machines, only missing audio, after audio board/flex corrosion. As your own doesn't even turn on, there must be more damage. Even if you fix that, still no sound at the end; is it worth to continue? BTW, did you test the MLB with audio flex disconnected?

Charger looks like properly detected. Do you get voltage on any big coil? What is PPBUS_G3H voltage w/ and w/o battery connected (charger present)?

OK, then is safe to use voltage injection method. There is not very low resistance to ground, so may not get anything really hot. But a good thermal camera can show something a bit hotter than rest of the board. Anyway start with lower voltage, you may have luck and thermal avalanche occurs...

Many times machine still boots in such case. Seems that T2 got more damage in your case...

Check resistance (ohm scale) between L7702 and PPBUS_G3H.