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yes all three inputs on the board from the working system are also 0V. after my last message I checked out R6752 and it was low and it basically broke off while I was testing, so I replaced it and now 3.3V on pin 6 reset output of U6703. Also R8014 now has 3.3V on both pins. but still no voltage...

contacts look clean I compared U6703 voltages on a board from a working system and found that pin 6 should have 3.3v but our board in question is almost zero. this must be significant, yes?

so I re-soldered DZ6701, and checked the kb connector pins and still 0. I found another DZ6701 and soldered it and still 0v for the three inputs on the kb connector. I get 1.8v still on U6703 pins 7-9, and basically still 0 on pins 1-3.

by the way, those two bare areas bottom left of the pads are copper trace, I scraped them just enough to see a little shine-- **and there is continuity between pin 4 and the resistor it leads to**

the kb connector is just reverse of this, that area is in perfect condition. I found another U6703 and re-soldered it. The input pin diode measurements are all .482-.485v. However, I do not get any voltage on the corresponding pins of the keyboard connector. DZ6701 is still removed

all three are ~.472v after DZ6701 removed

yes, done, all other keys work

different keyboard, same result. diode check is done without power connected, right? and yes I get 1.8v pin 1 of J6701

ok, thank you, input pins 1-3 all register ~.485v with and without keyboard connected

thanks for that in diode mode, input pins 1-3 all register ~1.83v with and without keyboard connected

liquid spill, both usb-c ports were stained with cranberry juice, and replacing both revived the MacBook. Works 100% other than these key problems. I haven't dived into the caps lock led yet. Just the three keys that don't work. I'm focusing right now on U6703 for these three. There's 3.3v...

hi all, thanks in advance for your faithful help, it's much appreciated suggestions for easiest way to solder this part? it has 4 large grounds on the corners. here's my idea: pre-solder all the pads with low melt ~361F, heat underneath with the highest heat possible without damaging anything...

2017, A1707 MBP, non T2, had a FindMy lock on it, and a firmware lock if I tried to boot into recovery I cleared the firmware lock by flashing a clean bios bin, and then immediately did a pram reset and booted from an external drive and installed Catalina. all good except Touch ID doesn't work...

wow thank you, guess I just needed to add "fpc" to the search terms. much appreciated, cheers!

tried aliexpress, ebay, beetstech, mouser, digikey tried searching "audio connector" and 510S0010 and 51138-0274 (from schematic) anyone have other suggestions besides **maybe** removing one from a donor board thank you!

for anyone wondering, I got an answer by posting in a different thread. From 2informaticos: "You need to insist a bit with the solder iron, to burn the enamel on the solder point; not easy to burn it accidentally too far. Do not damage the enamel with the cutter/knife, pay attention on that."

thanks, you're awesome as always!

2 part question. first, why would uncoated jumper wire ever really be needed? is there an advantage to using it short distances over the coated version? the other question is, in the process of soldering, is there a risk of burning off the enamel of coated wire too far along the length of it...

2 part question. first, why would uncoated jumper wire ever really be needed? is there an advantage to using it short distances over the coated version? the other question is, in the process of soldering, is there a risk of burning off the enamel of coated wire too far along the length of it...