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I ran out of dead boards for this particular model

Or just a Raspberry Pi, that works fine for me

For a 2013 3437 Macbook Air, if I were to buy the efi/spi rom chip from Mouser or whatnot would it work if I flash the rom with clean ME and serial on to it, or is there something special that Apple does with them? My instinct says there should be no problem, just seeing if anyone else has...

^ Absolute nightmare that never sounds like it would be worth it

I don't have a power supply, is there a different efficient way of snuffing out a short

Only set it to around 100C please don't actually use the reflow temperatures >.<

Yup, looks like it was just the board & cable, the motherboard is just fine

Edit: Solved When you plug in the charger, in OSX it thinks it is at 100%, but when you unplug it, it will go back to whatever it was before. There was liquid damage, U7100 was replaced and a wire was run from pin 18 to r7130 since the line was burnt, and the SMC was reflowed. I'm guessing this...

I would argue that you already were sharing thing with the "public" before, it was just ~500 people instead of maybe thousands.

Cool then, I'm all for this, I suppose moderation will just have to be tighter to stop users from posting copyrighted materials

I tested with incognito mode and a different browser, same thing, was this accidental or purposeful?

I pour alcohol over it to displace the water, let the alcohol evaporate then into the oven for 30 minutes at 100c

My fucked up schedule goes from 10:30am till 2:30am, I've really been trying to shift it so that I'm going to bed earlier, like 11pm or 12am would be better I think

Alright, sorry for taking so long, I finally got in a bunch of different donor boards which I needed. So I started off replacing the ISL6259 as well as C7040 since it didn't look happy, and then replaced Q7035 since it was causing a short to common on CHGR_LGATE I did test the resistance...

Resistance on PPBUS is around 4ohms, which matches the resistance on the CPUIMVP_PHASE* busses which would lead me to believe that its the MAX15119GTM, but it's not producing any heat. So then I went around with my laser temperature gun, narrowing down with evaporating alcohol to find...

So that's neat, going back to test, ppddr_s3_reg is now getting ~330ohms resistance to ground when before I was definatly near 0, but pppchvccio_s0_reg is 24ohms to ground, PPCPUVCCIO_S0_REG_R is 16ohms, PPVCORE_S0 is 4ohms, and PPVCCSA_S0_REG_R is 11ohms. Q73330 looks right as rain

Yeah, so I'm also getting short to grounds on PPDDR_S3_REG, PPCPUVCCIO_S0_REG_R, PPVCORE_S0, and PPVCCSA_S0_REG_R, but some of them are low voltage, so I don't know if that's normal, I'm also not familiar with what a FET being low side and high side means.

No liquid damage, originally was having troubles turning on and was producing a clicking sound, now the clicking has stopped and the short appeared, still getting orange light, ppv5_S5 is 1.1v not sure what to do now. I created this new thread since it's a new issue than the original posted

I'm guessing the short is either being caused the tantalum C7040, U7000, or Q7035. I'm leaning more towards the tantalum I think, not too sure though

It's called cw3300g which is an overcoat pen from all-spec.com