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Random shutdowns, especially when stressing GPU. So is this more likely to just be a straight-up GPU issue then? I'm curious too...what is different about the 2849 board that makes C9560 a non-issue? At first glance, it appears the only major difference is a 220uf cap instead of 330. For what...

Have replaced many C9560 on 820-2850, but this is my first time on a 2849 board. Schematic shows a 220uf cap instead of the usual 330 on the 2850. I have tons of donor boards, but am having trouble finding a suitable 220 uf replacement that isn't tantalum. Any suggestions? Or am I going to have...

No Title Overheating is certainly possible. Still getting dialed into heat and air settings on my Hakko 810. With that said, no signs of heat on bb_cpu though (which I assume is U1_RF) as far as I can tell. I remove all stickers before applying heat and little peckers in that area look good and...

Thanks guys. With that Molex part number, I was able to find it on Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/53780-0270/?qs=IvJWhXmDNxETb6Tkq%252bXyZg%3D%3D 89 cents each isn't bad with a MOQ of one. Seems to be a commonly damaged connector...I've run into two in the last week. In...

It's not entirely clear to me if the iPhone section is purely for data recovery situations, or if general iPhone board repair issues can be posted as well. Obviously please let me know if the former is the case and my question is inappropriate for the forum. Anyway, have a 5S here that had...

Anyone know a source (besides a donor board, of course) for connector J9001 (DP POWER) for 27" iMac 820-2828? Lots and lots of searching has turned up nothing so far.

I could have sworn I already checked PP3V3_S4 for short to ground and it wasn't, but right now, it is short to ground. Perhaps it wasn't before I replaced U3210 and U3220. Regardless, do I now inject power into that rail and find the hot spot? UPDATE: Only shorts to ground with MagSafe...

SMC_ADAPTER_EN = 3.4V DSW_PWRGD = 3.4V I do not have an oscilloscope on hand, but may be able to borrow one. Unfortunately buying one is not in the cards at the moment.

So even though those IC's are on the 3V3_S4 rail that has now power, it was a waste of time working them with regards to solving the no boot situation? 3.3V on L7560. Constant 0V on L7520, sampled for about 1 minute. U6100 and surrounding components look good. Had looked at those earlier...

I unfortunately don't have time to pull u8000 to check u8000 right now. I know that I have 3.3V on PP3V3_S5...I checked that earlier. 0V on PM_SLP_S5_L

Update: Found that U3220 also looked pretty shitty. Replaced that from donor board along with C3220. Still 0V on PP3v3_S4.

I have an 820-00165 board that has been liquid damaged and does not boot. MagSafe does responds (green, then amber). Looking at the board under the scope showed significant damage to pins 3 and 4 on LVDS. Found corrosion on U3210 and burn marks on C2385 and C3211. No continuity from U3210 pin 18...

I have an 820-2838 board, no liquid damage, that shows a faint green light. It boots, but does not charge. PP3v42 checks out good, but PPBUS shows only ~.3V. Having trouble figuring out my next step. Checked F7040 for continuity, and it checks good. Looks like Q5315 would be the next...

Replacing ISL with new chip and redoing jumper from for trace from pin 18 resulted in a booting board. Thanks for the help. Do I need to mark the title solved, or is that done by an admin? I don't see anywhere to edit the title of my thread...

I should have searched for the part number (ISL6259AHRTZ) because that led me to several options domestically, including buying them right from Louis. Which is what I'm going to do.

Got it. I have some on order from AliExpress, so it will be a little while until I get them. Do you know of any domestic sources for the part? I have been unable to find any so far. I would be willing to pay considerably more for the IC if someone sells it domestically just so I can continue...

PPBUS = only ~5V Trace from pin 2 on ISL to R7005 checks out good.

Right. Of course. Should have though that through more. Sorry for my ignorance...learning so much everyday. So given that 17/18 is now showing an appropriate resistance and all the traces now check out ok, is my next step replacing U7000 with a known good IC?

Well, I meant that pins 17 and 18 have continuity to each other. Looking at the schematic and also referencing a good board, I now see that this is to be expected thanks to C7050, right? I was relying to heavily on the boardview, I guess.

Yes, they do look bad. I meant to mention earlier that many of the caps and resistors surrounding U7000 look bad. I changed C7050, R7051, and R7052 and now pins 17/18 measure 3.2 ohms. Traces seemed fine when I checked the other day, but I revisited that today and found something interesting...