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I tried and archived this.
I know this is definitely not the prettiest job, but after 4 or more attempts it worked out and didn't floated away when I was cleaning the solder joints again. I'm 60% confident that this will work - maybe a bit less. I hammered down a piece of copper wire (the fine...
Ok. here is an update. I received the new chip and did as you said. I measured around the chip and noted down everything. Then I removed the chip but fucked up during the process. After the removal of the chip, the PP1V05 pads on the board (all 3 of them) were missing. Since they go to the CPU...
I measured around the U7800 and found the following voltages:
LDO_CORE 1.47v
PP0V8_SLPS2R 0v
PP3V0_G3H_RTC 0v
PP1V2_AWAKE 0v
PMU_LDO3_OUT 1.8v
I also measured the input side, because i dont know which voltages are derived from which - so maybe this is helpful.
PP1V1_SLPS2R 0v
PP3V3_G3H_RTC 3.3v...
I tried to follow all the steps provided by the website and encountered a problem. It is stated, that I should pull up SOC_FORCE_DFU to 1.8v.
The problem is, that neither 1V8_SLPS2R nor any other 1.8v line is active. They are all 0v so I can not pull up the FORCE_DFU line to 1.8v and could not...
ok got it. I will try the method with the switch, mentioned in the article. Is it enough for the first test to test if the DFU_STATUS line becomes 1.8v?
I only ask because gathering a second Mac will take me until next week. My colleague has the Mac from the lab for the time being.
When connecting the Board will it be recognized immediately or do I need to set the board into DFU mode?
As for setting the board to DFU Mode, there are 2 ways I've read about. One method uses the assembled mac and the keyboard and the other uses the Force DFU jumper. Which way is the preferred...
I checked the following G3S voltages:
PP5V_G3S - 0v
PP1V8_G3S - 0v
PP3V3_G3S_T - 0v
PP5VG3S_EN - 0v
PP1V8G3S_EN - 0v
PP3V3G3S_T_EN - 0v
Those are the lines that I thought were important to measure.
For the SSD lines, please tell me which ones are the important ones. There are at least 100...
The PP3V3_G3H_T still has 1.2v on every port in every rotation. I just double checked it.
The P3V3G3H_EN however is 0.0v on all ports in all orientations.
I have both at hand - a 96w and a 140w charger with the original apple cable.
I tested all 4 ports with both chargers in each orientation and got no luck with that.
I also tested it with a properly rated Thunderbold cable.
No port did anything different. I was not able to archive 20v with any...
So i measured where i left off last time:
PPBUS_G3H - 12v
PP3V3_G3H_RTC_X - 3.3v
CHRG_EN_MVR - 5v
This is good—yay, first success.
I tried to reassemble the mac and test of that solved the issue - of course not.
First I tried to measure the Input voltage and then a line we already spoke...
I put everything back, including all fuses and the IC. I measured again in diode mode from PPBUS to GND, and the value has not changed. It still is 0.400, which I suppose is good. Can I now safely plug in the charger and test for 20v, or is there anything else that I need to perform first?
When I came into the lab this morning, the first thing I did was to measure again. The board was without power since Friday.
I checked in diode mode, and when I put the red lead on PPBUS and the black to GND, I get a value of 0.00 and rising well above 1.1 and when I reverse the probes (after...
Im probably as confused as you are. Before injecting voltage it was 15 ohms. Now it starts with 200 ohms increasing to 3mohms.
The only thing i changed is that I soldered 2 wires to the board to inject the voltage and i removed the F8400 fuse before doing so.
After removing the fuse (and...
Ok. I tried to inject some voltage today and was met with a very stange behaviour of the board.
I tried to raise the voltage - at first to 2, then 3 and finally 5 v but I got the same result.
The first few moments ( not even a second) the board draws some current, but then it falls back to 0...