Replacement topdeck/keyboard for Retina 12" A1534 - preferred supplier?

Paul Daniels

Super Moderator
Coffee spill.

No migration through to the main board thankfully, but I've noticed there's not a lot of price difference between replacing the keyboard within vs a complete top-deck replacement. My question more is "Is there a preferred supplier?" (sending to Australia)
 

dukefawks

Administrator
It is all the Chinese dumpster dive gamble. I have replaced a few of these keyboards by just getting a separate keyboard and a new "backlight". The backlight is just the adhesive black cover but should be replaced as the old one will have exposed conductive material that may short out the keyboard if stuck back on.

Best would probably be to buy from someone not Chinese that has stripped one for parts, that way you know you get a good quality part not from a dumpster.
 

Alan.L

Member
Or take it to apple, they will swap the middle case for free now, thats only if you cant see any corrosion on the logic board and casing. ?
 

Paul Daniels

Super Moderator
Or take it to apple, they will swap the middle case for free now, thats only if you cant see any corrosion on the logic board and casing. ?

I think the coffee stains and smell on/around the keyboard might be a bit of a give-away.
 

Paul Daniels

Super Moderator
Frustratingly I've not as yet finalised this job. Too many variables I'm unsure about.

I was about to purchase a replacement unit, but then I noticed there was the 613-04337-A etched on the panel, checking with the AliExpress units, they all have different codes. Checking with the local authorized Apple repairer says they cannot locate that part but they can supply the replacement unit for ~$450 USD.

SN: C02VG54PHH27 comes up as a mid 2017 model, so now I'm a bit confused ( was thinking it was 2016 ).

Sorry to ask, but if anyone could confidently point to an item on AliExpress and say "Get this", it'd be appreciated.
 
No Title

It is under warranty but they do know about the liquid as of 6/26 (see pics).
The second pic is of the correct part for your SN. Exchange price listed. No reason they can’t locate the part.
 

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Paul Daniels

Super Moderator
Yes, that wasn't me putting in that submission, would have been the owners before they sent it to me. $229 equates to about $309 AUD, I could have gone with that. A bit late now, order is already done and gone through with Ali.

I don't like dealing with equipment still covered with warranty, but when it was liquid damaged and the client wanted to still go ahead, I took on the job, on the grounds that Apple already was excluding it from coverage.

My first preference in these situation is always "Send it to Apple", so at least the clients get their rightfully owed repairs (if valid).
 

dukefawks

Administrator
All the A1534 keyboard are the same. Also order the "backlight" cover thing as the original will be damaged and have exposed conductive coating. It is not really the backlight but that is what China calls it. EMI shield really.
 

Paul Daniels

Super Moderator
The one ordered appears to have it, at least according to the "pictures".

Thanks for clarifying about it being just an EMI shield, because honestly, I was looking at it under the microscope trying to work out where the traces/LEDs were when I originally peeled it off, and I felt a bit stupid for not being able to find anything other than foil.
 

Paul Daniels

Super Moderator
No Title

Replacement deck finally arrived and installed.

I do have one item I want to get clarified if possible Duke;

Regarding the flipping up of the screen flex retainer / connector, Are you referring to the top retainer plate, or something else?

( as per shown in this picture )

After your prior posts, I did revert to inserting/removing without flipping that up, but I wanted to verify that this is the state that you're cautioning against?
 

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Replacement deck finally arrived and installed.

I do have one item I want to get clarified if possible Duke;

Regarding the flipping up of the screen flex retainer / connector, Are you referring to the top retainer plate, or something else?

( as per shown in this picture )

After your prior posts, I did revert to inserting/removing without flipping that up, but I wanted to verify that this is the state that you're cautioning against?


Paul,
Did you replace just the keyboard or the whole top case? If I have a good top case (wrong color) as a donor, can I swap over while salvaging the foil?

Any other tips?

thanks
 

Paul Daniels

Super Moderator
I replaced the entire top-deck. It was certainly more expensive and it definitely wasn't brand-new (I wasn't expecting it to be, thankfully the client's own top-deck wasn't pristine either). The extra $150 likely saved me more than that in frustrations. Upside, I now have a spare top-deck which I should try put a replacement keyboard + foil in to.

If you check, a few of the keyboard suppliers also will supply it with the foil, so that'll make things a bit easier for you.
 
I replaced the entire top-deck. It was certainly more expensive and it definitely wasn't brand-new (I wasn't expecting it to be, thankfully the client's own top-deck wasn't pristine either). The extra $150 likely saved me more than that in frustrations. Upside, I now have a spare top-deck which I should try put a replacement keyboard + foil in to.

If you check, a few of the keyboard suppliers also will supply it with the foil, so that'll make things a bit easier for you.


Yeah, I’ve noticed used ‘palmrests’ with good keyboards are cheaper than the replacement keyboard alone.
Saw a video of someone changing out the keyboard and reusing the film - reread what Duke said about shorting though, so probably not worth it.
Wondering if a liquid damaged topcase could benefit from a trip through the ultrasonic, or if that would just worsen things...

Thanks for the quick response!
 
You can try, what is there to loose?



So.. how does this foil/ lid sensor work?

Had a bad 2015 a1534 keyboard - when plugged in the display backlight would flash briefly but the system wouldn’t turn on.

Carefully peeled back the film and inspected for any damage. Couldn’t see anything obvious but cleaned anyway. Used the Crest and 99% alcohol bath after. All went well.. until I slightly melted most of the keys while drying. All mechinisms are intact though.
Tested with keyboard only, no foil. Mac turns on, shows battery, then no backlight, followed by backlight again and Apple logo with half progress bar for a second then back to no backlight. Once loaded I’m able to see image without backlight. Keys don’t seem responsive, including power.

I read somewhere that the sleep/wake lid function is managed here. Wondering if the system thinks the lid is closed.

Confirmed continuity between the cable and connector on the keyboard. I see SMC_LID on pin 26 of MLB connector but not sure where this goes on/ after the tpad and how this functions. Obviously very difficult to test while assembled.

Should the keyboard and system work without the foil? How is this part of the sleep/wake function?

*Swapping just the keyboard, not tpad, cables or case will bring down a fully functioning like model Mac*
 

dukefawks

Administrator
The sleep sensor(s) are on the side of the keyboard. So could be corrosion under them or in the connector. 2015 keyboard is different to 2016. The 2016 has 2 sleep sensors.
 
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