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@piernov any ideas on this one? Could SMC fault in such a way that it would only affect ALS SMBUS and not anything else connected to that line?

Inspect areas immediately near USB-C connectors on board. VERY common for people to knock off the diodes/caps when disconnecting the USB-C assembly.

Working on an 820-00840 board that had no camera. Tested it in several assemblies as I know the cameras in these panels love to fail. All power lines measured fine around U3900, but I had seen someone about a year back mention the ALS SMBUS sensor causing issues with the camera SMBUS line, so I...

I don't think it's the case in this situation, but you CAN overheat the SPI chip with hot air. This is VERY EASY to do with the Micron N- chips! They will die/damage very easily if you apply too much heat too directly. Usually it just damages/corrupts the BIOS dump itself, but you might see the...

That's great to hear! Glad you got it figured out; quite a relief I'm sure. :)

Unfortunately restoring the unit won't be possible if it's locked. You can get into DFU and begin the restore process, but it will quickly fail and a padlock will show on your AC2 unit. The locked unit will just boot to a connect-to-wifi screen and eventually get back to the activation lock...

Yep this is literally Apple's plan. Forcefully encourage users to log into their iCloud when setting up a T2 unit; enable boot security by default; remove data-recovery lifeboat connector; and make BIOS/SPI inaccessible. You should be able to wipe the unit without the iCloud information; you...

Yeah, and having them wipe it via their iCloud account on icloud.com can be VERY hit or miss. I think it's worked properly maybe...twice...for us. It's always easiest to do it from the unit itself via their login info. Just tell them this is the new reality of board repair; iCloud login info...

Thanks so much! If you're interested, and ever got the hankering to whip up a quicker script/method to accomplish that, I'd be happy to compensate you. Just shoot me a message if you ever do!

Thanks, Piernov! Will give that a try. Any instructions on how to create the Linux LiveUSB (mainly, where to obtain Linux, etc)? I've never messed with Linux before, but assume the process is the same as creating a MacOS USB drive. Will be a bit of a process to do this for every single...

Yeah not much to the backlight circuit. Gotta make sure your pads are perfectly clean and chip is re-balled well. Honestly, most times I see this issue, it's caused by uneven solder and not "necessarily" a bad chip. But I re-ball them all myself usually, pulled from parts boards (tired of...

Why sell if it's so lucrative? Genuine question.

Bad LP8550, or bad LCD connector. Probably just a bad LP8550. Are you installing new chips, or re-balling used ones? If re-balling, you gotta make sure they're all perfect and the same size. Check all the LED_RETURN lines of course (just check diode mode at the connector-side resistors). I bet...

dead CPU

Try another battery first, of course.

"BTW, no short on PCH/CPU rails cannot assure you the chips are good!" Exactly! In fact, many times it WON'T show a short because it's not a total STG! Bet you have a dead CPU in this case.

This issue is almost ALWAYS U3900, if no damage to board (and no tampering with BIOS). We repair at least one of these per week, and replacing U3900 resolves issue about 90% of the time. Another thing you really need to check on these is the pins on iSight connector itself--both inside connector...

In my experience, when a CD3215 has a hole in it, the CPU/PCH is toast. I've had 3 or 4 boards that had the CD3125's shorted so badly they burned a hole into the chip itself and fused the ball to the pad below it (I believe all shorted @3v3_g3h), and in all 3 cases, I resolved the short and CPU...

Quick update: I ordered 40x LP8550 from the mouser link above, and they still have the choppy-adjustment. So, I'd avoid buying from there if you were considering. Haven't tried the python script fix yet, not sure how, but the mouser part isn't a fix.

Probably because you're using a 2015 model display. Lots of variables here...you need to rule them all out. "Known-good" displays--how do you know they work? Do they work with ANY 3536/3476 boards, OR do they work with any 4924 boards? This shouldn't be hard to figure out. Again, probably a 2015...