820-3115-B gets power, fan spin but shuts off after a moment?

EDIT 820-2936-B board, 13", board receives power well but when power button is pressed the fan will whir and the sleep light will come on for a moment, then abruptly cut off.

When I keep only the charger plugged in instead of the battery, eventually after many cycles of doing the above the sleep light will blink in sequence 3 times, as if it were indicating a RAM issue. I've tried different sticks tho of course.

No signs of water damage on the board, could it potentially be a bad RAM slot/cartridge? Machine never beeps or indicates anything other than the 3 sleep light blinks, but mostly it's just the brief cut on/cut off cycle.
Plan to test the main power rails tomorrow, but was wondering if you guys knew what it could be/what direction to push me in.

Thanks!
 
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2informaticos

Administrator
Staff member
Board should start and get voltages without RAM.
Check if all secondary voltages try to appear at least.
Be sure 3V42 and PPBUS_G3H are stable, as other voltages too.
Check for short on all S3 and S0 rails.
ALL_SYS_PWRGD appears?
 
Sorry, it's an 820-2936-B board! Dealing with so many 2012s lately it slipped my mind.
G3H bounces between 12.6v and 4.0v, PWRGD starts at ~3.2v, holds for a few moments and then drops to 3mv bc of the power cycle. 3V42 is stable. Maybe U7000?
5V_S3, 5V_S0, 3V3_S3 AND 3V3_S0 are all present before the power cycle happens, same thing w/PWRGD where it holds for a few moments then drops.
 

2informaticos

Administrator
Staff member
Looks like SMC detects something and resets ISL6259.
Does it stay on in SMC bypass mode?
Post exact resistance between pins 17/18 and 27/28 of ISL6259.
Does it charge the battery?
 
It does stay on in SMC bypass mode! I should remember to troubleshoot that when I see problems like these.
So I did a bit of further troubleshooting:

Tried multiple batteries before, all of which didn't work. Got a fresh new battery with a charge today tho to test, the machine boots just fine with a battery. No beeps, nothing awry, you get a chime and everything.
Just with AC, computer does not turn on fully. Also doesn't charge the battery, never changes from green.
How would I test resistance on those pins? They're way too small for my multimeter to reach accurately.
 

2informaticos

Administrator
Staff member
Get special SMD probes for your DMM; few bucks on eBay.

You can measure direct on the caps connected to these pins.
But this will not discard bad solders on the ISL6259.
 
In resistance mode I checked C7020, since pad 1 was pin 27 and pad 2 was pin 28--I got 20ohms, but I'm guessing that's just the inherent resistance of the capacitor.
You think it's either a bad U7000 or bad SMC at this point?

I'll get those probes tho!
 

JohnB8812

New member
300 ohms is too high. This means one of three things:
1. R7051/2 are either both blown or one is blown
2. R7050 is blown (way less likely)
The trace(s) between the ISL and R7051/2 are blown or between R7051/2 and R7050
 
Yeah, it was R7052!! Thanks a bunch guys! While I was taking it off I accidentally ripped the solder pad, so I ran a jumper wire. You guys are the best :) thanks again!! Now I just have to resolder a display connector since I had relegated this guy to parts earlier... lol :)
 
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