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Not yet. If you have a 00239 board, you can take off the "life boat" connector J9600. It is not needed unless you want data off a dead board. You will need to bridge all the pins together, look at diagram.
So I pulled an LCD connector off of my newly allocated 820-00840 donor board and I have backlight again. I'm measuring a very low .059 in diode mode on pin 14 BKLT_PWM_TCON2MLB. It should be somewhere around .735. Pin 16 BKLT_PWM_MLB2TCON is fine at .735. Any idea how this might affect things? Also, do you think it's necessary to put the surrounding grounded metal ring back on the LCD connector? It's working without it so far but I'm not sure of the consequences of leaving this off.
Probably won't have brightness control anymore. The only reason I can see for the low reading would be a damaged SMC.
Dunno about the shielding, you're probably fine there.
So, brightness controls are working normally, but video is going away at times. It's not like a bad connection in-and-out kind of thing, it just won't have video after coming out of sleep, or restarting. Just now I disconnected the battery and restarted it and the video is back. Not sure what I'm dealing with yet.
So this board will actually lose video signal randomly. I thought it was only when coming out of sleep, but it happens at random times and stays off until I restart, and sometimes doesn't even come back then. It will however show up fine on an external monitor during those times. The backlight is on. The screen has the same blue/black glow as when you first start it, but with nothing on the screen. Any idea which line might be dying to cause the signal to go out like this?
@larossmann Can you take a look at this one for me. The title is a little confusing because it started off as something else and evolved into an issue post. Feel free to change the title to something better. Thanks
Have you confirmed with a known good LCD that this still happens?
Also the LCD in these has a 5v and a 3.3v power rail, unlike the old ones that only had 5v, or 3.3v exclusively. When this occurs, are you missing power on one, neither, or both?
99% chance it is the LCD. If it managed to blow up the LCD connector then it isn't a large jump that the LCD itself went bad as well. I realize that these are incredibly expensive so keeping a donor around is painful.