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Let's build a DIY fume extractor

spakhnyuk

spakhnyuk

New member
Although I still want to build a fume extraction unit with a filter, I have taken a different approach. I'm going to vent everything outside. Going to cut a hole in the wall, and connect an inline fan.
Ordered the the fan and loc line tubing on Amazon today. Of course not everyone has the luxury of being able to vent to the outside, but in my situation it's working out perfectly. What do you guys think about the idea? Outside the building we're most likely going to install a dryer like vent.

Here's what I ordered on Amazon today:

190CFM Inline Fan http://www.amazon.com/dp/B019INGAO4...TF8&colid=3FKDRUDHBC8BO&coliid=I190WNZEXIT7B5
4 ft of Loc-Line Hose http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006R9OV94...TF8&colid=3FKDRUDHBC8BO&coliid=I3DD8291O2Q3K5
Rectangular Nozzle http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00270F7L8...TF8&colid=3FKDRUDHBC8BO&coliid=I3M9FGJ50XITZ3
4" to 2.5" Reducer http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DSDSY2...TF8&colid=3FKDRUDHBC8BO&coliid=I1RT2R22CF0S4H
 
JorgePayar

JorgePayar

Member
I had the same idea because I have a window on my right side, but the problems for me are:

1 if one day is windy and cold the room is gonna be cold
2 if it is windy could all the fumes come back inside? (too difficult but not impossible)
3 if you need to move to another location.
4 Drilling happy and then...fuck!!! a load bearing wall!!! and it is harder like a wedding dick :D

The idea is ok, the dryer vent would be perfect to avoid some problems, but I think it will be better with a filter.
 
M

mnaty

New member
The only problem i have with venting to outside is efficiency. If you are moving even only 150cfm...then you are dumping 1500 cubic feet of conditioned air every 10 minutes. That makes for a heafty ac bill and puts added strain on your ac system.

If you can do this in an isolated room with seperate ac... Such as a window unit then you should be fine.
 
M

mnaty

New member
To minimize blow back you would want to use a combo of louver and right-angle down draft to block outside air from pushing back. For extra protection still use carbon filter stuffing in hose duct. Its a half measure approach, but something is always better than nothing
 
M

mnaty

New member
Also, have you guys looked at fans yet. I dont recommend basic computer fans. Look at server fans as bare minimum. Much more torque and higher rpms, but they are louder. You can always insulate enclosure to muffle sound.
 
M

mnaty

New member
The one youre looking at is going to very large, but has good power for sure. Just make sure youre comfortable with the external dimension as that will be your bare minimum internal dimensions for your enclosure. These units are also very loud, so youll have make sure u insulate well without suffocating unit. Egg crate foam should work well for sound absorption

Also, still waiting to here back about filters.
Fyi: i googled "pleated fiberglass paper" and thats how i found suppliers to contact.
 
rany

rany

New member
I did something on my bench until I could get a decent fume extractor. Got an old IBM power supply, added a power switch and alligator clips to the 12V, 5V, 3.42V, lines, and used the same to power a fan for extraction, that blows fumes towards a bigger ventilation fan at the window.
I use this set up as a bench power supply when I want limited amps (my DCPS dumps up to 20 AMPS and will fry a board if a line is shorted).
I flip the fan to cool a board as well.
So if possible to aggregate power supply with extraction it could be a good space saving trick for those who can't afford the bigger set-up.
 
rany

rany

New member
Also I've been meaning to use something different: a suction blower that usually comes built-in into ironing boards, and are foot-pedal activated. It usually needs direct AC, a big cap, and that foot controller. I was shopping for a used one. They're pretty powerful. Alternatively, could have a normal knob/switch, but foot-pedal us nice as you can activate it only when soldering.
 
JorgePayar

JorgePayar

Member
rany said:
Also I've been meaning to use something different: a suction blower that usually comes built-in into ironing boards, and are foot-pedal activated. It usually needs direct AC, a big cap, and that foot controller. I was shopping for a used one. They're pretty powerful. Alternatively, could have a normal knob/switch, but foot-pedal us nice as you can activate it only when soldering.
Click to expand...

that is a great idea
 
M

mnaty

New member
This is probably the best option so far. Hopefully this Chinese manufacturer sends me some info soon. I'm thinking their raw supplies could build the same filter for about $25. But this is just speculation.
 
M

mnaty

New member
This one i have heard too. But i really question this as the hoses are far enough down the stage that temps should have cooled to an acceptavle level. Of your referring to the loc-tite. Its not actually a hose its a solid material with a much higher heat dissappation than a rubber hose. However, checking the locktite site or with loctite support for actual temp ratings may be best. But they do list fume extraction as an intended use.

Also i will seperately post new filter info next
 
M

mnaty

New member
Ok, so more research on filters has revealed new data.

Athough hepa is what we think of as the standard in filtrattion it may not be suited to what we need. However can still be an optional add for those that like overboard protection and want to clean air while removing the gas or simply just prolong the gaseous filtration to the max.

What we do know is that hepa play nearly no role whatsoever in filtering the fumes extracted from our solder work. Hepa is a particulate filtration and not a gaseous substance filter.

What does filter gases? Activated carbon. We all have received them with our various tabletop bench filters and home ac filters. What i have learned is that these are mostly carbon fiber constructs which has little to no real benefit. Manfacturers attempt to increase there gaseous absorption ratings by coating the fibers with activated charcol dust, but again these surface area and capillaries of the carbon dust have very little effect in comparison to actual raw activated carbon.

The good news is activated carbon can be cheaply sourced from almost anywhere in the world. Additionally, this should provide a far superior level of filtration in comparison to models like the hakko.

The bad news is creating a filter for use with activated charcol will require a little more work. Its substance is more like rocky sand so a post cloth & mesh filter will need to be used support the weight and prevent debris from escaping.

Additionally, you need to prefilter activated charcol to prevent dust from clogging the pores of the charcol which is what traps the gasses. The better you filter dust, the long your lifespan of the activated charcol will be for gas/fume removal.

So now a top notch filter will work soming like this:

1) Basin with steel mesh bottom 1.5"-2" thick or larger.
2) add cloth layer to prevent debris (possibly cheese cloth)
3) Pour in 1" or more layer activated charcol
4) top with prefilter media. (This can be as many stages as you desire. However, as we are pulling air at a very localized area, i do not believe that extreme prefiltering measures are needed)

*i do recommend that your prefilter layer extend beyond your activated charcol. This ensures that unfiltered air does not travel around your prefilter edges and create a direct access void for dust to contaminated the charcol.

All this sounds science-y and complicated, but its actaually very simple. Ill try to lay out a sketch later and add some pics when i make the first prototype.
 
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