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820-01598-A A2159 MacBook Pro 13” crush damage

2informaticos

2informaticos

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Do you really want to put exact 4.7 ohm resistor in place?
You can use 2-10 ohm value without problems; even tiny wire (0 ohm) instead.

Both USB-C areas should have the same behavior.
If not, there is still a problem on USB-C power input.

Connect battery and test the board now.
Don't forget the battery data cable!
 
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posarah

Member
Sorry, forgot the K in the 2.7 metric earlier. Wasn’t sure if it would work with anything but a 2.7k. If I can use anything else than sure I’d be happy using that as long as it would work. I believe the tolerance of this resistor is 1% so that would be +- 100 so a max of 2.8k? The schematic I downloaded from bad caps says it’s 2.7k and the one I removed measured around that so I’m assuming that’s what it should be.

I unfortunately misplaced it though, well it’s not misplaced, it went flying when I tried to reflow it and had the air too high.
Since that resistor is on a CPU line is it safe to continue testing without it? I’ll hook up the battery and test but just want to make sure it’s safe to do so with that resistor missing.
 
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posarah

Member
T2 shield and CPU heatsink are getting quite warm. Not hot you can leave your hand on it but pretty warm. Is it worth taking the T2 shield off and inspecting? I’m hesitant to do that as I really struggled to get the thunderbolt one off and don’t want to float anything.
 
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posarah

Member
No worries. It’s on page 65 of the schematic towards the bottom left side of U7100 ISL95828. Line it’s on is COMP_C_CPUSA_L
 
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posarah

Member
Ok thanks I’ll see what I have around 3k. Better to go high than low. I’m going to try figure out why the other ports turning the meter off before I connect the battery. My understanding is that you need both ports working for the system to boot so probably should sort that out before connecting the battery.
 
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posarah

Member
Ok fair enough I’ll hook the battery up and see if anything changes. Hopefully the battery did not get damaged in the crushing of the chassis that cracked the trackpad and screen. It looks fine not puffy so hopefully should be fine.
 
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posarah

Member
Ok plugged in the battery and it’s data cable only and now we’re back to where we were earlier, after replacing the isl but before removing R7191 which was the step that gave us 20v. 5v not 20v. I’m gonna be cranky if the isl has blown again! I only connected the battery none of the other ribbons are connected, do you need any of the rest connected?

port closest to the speakers still turns my USB power meter off even with the battery connected.

Port towards the back takes 0.0450 or so. My USB c meter also shows the USB C data lines so 0.017 for d+ Protocol CCP 1.5A, and d- 0.07 protocol USB 2.0 High. It fluctuates down slightly than back up to the above than after about 30 sec or so the amps drop to 0 and D+ drops down to 0.012 and dips down than back up. Protocol stays the same. D- dips to 0.01 and again the protocol stays the same. As mentioned above this is the exact behaviour I saw after replacing the 9240 but before removing r7191. Removing that finally gave me the 20v. That’s still missing though so that can’t be the issue.

weird the protocol no longer says apple 2.0 when I first got the 98w adapter it use to say apple protocol but ever since I sprayed the board with ipa and lost 20v it now says either Samsung or the above no apple protocol.
 
2informaticos

2informaticos

Administrator
Staff member
Do you get PPBUS_G3H with battery alone?
Its voltage depens of battery charge; do not expect 13V, like from charger.

If no charger, need to trigger PMU_ONOFF_L in order to start the board.
Use SE030/1 pads, instead of power button.
 
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posarah

Member
I do. I shorted the se030 pins to turn the board on and pPbus at f7000 is 1.28v. When I first received the board the previous owner left the battery connected so when I opened it up the cpu was quite hot so I imagine the battery is pretty low charge. I then connected the charger and still 5v 0.044 A for 30 sec or so than drops to 0A. D+ is 1.2v fluctuating and d- is 1.2 fluctuating.pPbus on f7000 is now 1.7v with charger and battery connected.
Top port towards speakers still turns charger off.
 
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posarah

Member
Rechecked VDDA and the isl is outputting 5v to it but only for 30 sec than it turns off and the rail drops to zero. Looks like somethings pulling too much current and causing the isl to shut off.
 
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posarah

Member
I’m starting to think I got really unlucky and also blew the cd3217. USB_SOC__TYPE_P has no shorts on it, 667k to ground both on the test pad and re014 and pin 7 of ue010 and no voltage.
 
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posarah

Member
Ok I think I know what the problem is. Pin 18 on J3300 is now missing. Pin 19 outside section and bottom section of the connector are there but the inside section towards the other rows of pins seems to be missing. DZ3351, DZ3352, DZ3350, DZ3353 are cracked or partly missing. Pretty sure this is recent damage though because before replacing the isl I was checking diode modes on those and they were fine. Pretty sure this is from connecting the battery. For the parts in that row marked D rather than DZ aren’t they also diodes? I ask because whether I read left to right or right to left I get OL on them. If they were blown shouldn’t they read 0 or close to it like the DZ parts are?
 
2informaticos

2informaticos

Administrator
Staff member
You can only get OL reading on these diodes.
In fact, any of them is composed from two diodes in oposition; that's the reason of no reading.
These are dedicated diodes, for ESD and TVS protections.
If there is connected some IC, then possibly get readings around 0.500-700 in one way; depends where is checked.

If pin 19 got damaged, corresponding CD3217 is probably fried.

BTW, did you replace the missing resistor?
 
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posarah

Member
Ah ok that explains it thanks did not know that. I think I’m going to replace all the glass looking diodes. First few are cracked, missing and the rest bar the top one are reading both ways so they look like their blown. Probably change all of them just to be safe.

Not yet no the missing resistor has been left off. I don’t have any around it’s ratings so I’ve ordered some.How can I check if the CD is ok? I checked resistance to ground both on the resistor before it and the test pad and they were 380k so it’s not shorted to ground. That doesn’t always mean it’s ok though. If it is dead where can we source them? Last I heard there like the ISL 9240. I’ll have a look at Ali express but don’t know if there legit or not like you said with the 9240s.

I’ve taken a few photos if you want to reference them of the USB c connector and the diodes sections.
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2informaticos

2informaticos

Administrator
Staff member
Stop checking in ohm scale.
Use diode mode, as in the "How To..." thread explained.

If these diodes realy blown, more damage on the board is possible.
Broken/open diodes should not block any line; just no more protection offered...
 
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