(347) 552-2258 [email protected]

Let's build a DIY fume extractor

spakhnyuk

spakhnyuk

New member
So let's all agree that the fume extractor prices are outrages. $600 bucks for a box with fans and filters plus another $120 for some hakko color coordinated hose?
I'm convinced we can build better fume extractor for a fraction of the cost.

mnaty posted some information on a different thread regarding this project so I'm hoping he can share his knowledge. I'm assuming he already built a DIY fume extractor, so his help would be amazing.

Let's gather some information regarding the DIY project. Please post links or information for what exact components would work out the best.

Here's a rough materials list of what would be needed:

-Hose
-Fans(s)
-Enclosure
-PSU for fans
-switches/regulators
-Filers

Please post any ideas or outlines you may have.
I'm starting from scratch here. Never built anything like this so apart from the general idea, I know nothing :D
 
JorgePayar

JorgePayar

Member
It seems amazing this project, if you want a Hakko Fume extractor fa 430 in Europe you must pay over 1200$!!
So you have my support on this DIY fume extractor!!
 
M

mnaty

New member
Ill definitely upload some shares as my next iteration progresses.

Ive just now order sheet of 1/4" plexi-glass for a clients project. The remnants of that project are going to make my new upgraded box. This will make an excellent show piece as youll be able to see all the guts and glory.

Additionally, i strongly recommend using the lock-tite esd hoses. They offer articulated control and self-supporting for about 3ft. If you want them longer then you have to create a brace. All my previous builds have not incorporated these and always felt a little clunky and lack-luster.

If anyone has questions on fans, then feel free to ask. However, almost any fan will do. Just look at cfm rating of some of the commercial units like hakko (very poor/low cfm). I think Louis's recommended unit, which works very well, only has around 90cfm per fan. My target is always 120 or above. Next build is going to use two 10" fans with 300cfm each.

Also, if your really on a budget... You can use my very first build which will cost about $50. Super simple. You only need 3 items (i bought all of these of wallmart years ago)
1) portable 20" window fan
2) charcoal filter unit aka odor control filter in the ac supply section (replace as needed)
3) roll of duct tape or duck tape... Your choice

Steps to assemble the cheapy
1) align filter to intake side of fan (my preference, but either side works)
2) duct tape filter to fan at middle point of seam
3) turn fan on and enjoy the largest and most powerful fume extractor that youll ever own.
 
Last edited:
M

mnaty

New member
Pictures of commercial units may help you understand/self-assure that these units are not as complicated as their price tags suggest, but its not necessary to build a professional unit.

Understanding the basics behind creating a sealed vacuum enclosure and quality mechanics is all that is necessary to build a professional grade unit.

Again, i break these down into three parts:

Air intake
Filtration
Component enclosure with exhaust

You can build your own power and control boards, but from my experience its cheaper (in both time and money) to buy from ebay. Depending on fans chosen youll end up buying a psu between 5v to 48v and 2a - 5a. If you are running multi-fan unit you can use a single psu or use one per fan.

One other note. As i have a 3d printer, i eventually want to try printing some custom fans that will mount on high torque, high rpm motors from ebay just to see if results are better. Higher torque should allow for thicker/tighter filtration. If i ever get the time i will complete and share. However i wanted to inform incase anyone else wanted to try. *tighter filtration adds a resistance load to the fan motor when try to pull air thru filter; similar princple to how extra torque is helpful when tring to drive a car uphill
 
spakhnyuk

spakhnyuk

New member
Lets start by choosing the best fans for the job. Can you post link with fan specs that would be appropriate for the the project?
 
JorgePayar

JorgePayar

Member
M

mnaty

New member
Good post. I was unaware of the 3 filter components. Knew they used multistage, but again im lazy, so i never went past just straight carbon filter.

Ill do some surfing to locate, but if anyone knows or finds a good source for all filter component... Please share.

Might be possible to find some premades that have basic enough dimemsions that they can be easily used/adapted to any enclosure.
 
Last edited:
M

mnaty

New member
Another awesome find. I actually use the same vortex fan (made really for grown houses) as the blowers for my positive pressure room. They are loud as shit. Ill have to lool into it
 
JorgePayar

JorgePayar

Member
Good info mnaty.
The best choice would be buying the hakko pre filter and main filter, the main one has the carbon one included at the bottom.
So the fan would be before the filters, isn't it?

One thing I know is that the air that goes in has to go out but I don't know where it goes in the fa 430
 
Last edited:
M

mnaty

New member
In the fa 430 the filter is before the fan. The fan is located under a seperate sealed enclosure. Maybe louis would be kind enough to share some pics. I tried to find some replacement fan parts for the unit, but appears hakko doesnt sell that.

Also, i found a supplier of hepa filters and hepa filter individual components on alibaba. Waiting for response.

$120 for a hepa filter seems crazy to me. It fiberglass paper and charcol. Prefilter is even more basic polycotton blend. If thats what it cost ok, but seems it follows the model of printers... Bend you over for refills
 
M

mnaty

New member
Also, due to the air gap design of my layout, i do not believe it matters which side the filter is on in regards to dispersion of airflow. My preference is to place before the electronics to keep them as clean as possible without having to seperately enclose

However, i do think adding an air gap above the filter will help create a more even use of the filter.

So electronic box below has its own airgap. Then filter housing above. Airgap between top of filter and inlet ports.

Additionally, one separation between commercial units and home made are the filter sensors. Commercial units have incorporated a vacuum pressure sensor and relay that shuts of unit and alerts to need for filter changes. My understanding is that this works by measure air pressure (flow resistance) and when pressure exceeds airflow tolerance the relay is tripped to signal time for change.

If you want this feature youll currently need to stick with commercials. As time permits, i will look for and reach out to opensource for any arduino projects that may work for this.
 
Last edited:
JorgePayar

JorgePayar

Member
I agree with you.
I think probably the sensors are because of the fan speed, but I don't care about the sensors, once a month we change the pre filter like Louis does and we don't need the sensors and too many electronics.
I prefer the easiest way to do it. You can put a stick that says the date when you changed it.

Louis could you please share some pictures of the hakko fa 430?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top