Recent content by Revive

Some light corrosion in different areas. C6452 area, replaced all effected caps and resistors and checked around in diode for any stray shorts, also corrosion at C5101 area replaced all effected along with J5100. L8504 exploded and carbonized, replaced. A spot of damage at the LCD end of the...

Yes when lid is open the board works, but when lid is closed it wont charge at all (.01 amps) I've replaced both hall sensors one at a time and observed, everything was the same back to square one. Going down the lid sensor line I replaced U4802 and the caps around it, now the board pulls 20v...

Yes, opening the lid works in restoring the amps! So it seems when SMC_LID is low something is happening, is it possible PP1V8 is being shorted in J4801 or J4800 only when low, or more likely something wrong with U3900? Am I the only one who hates replacing hall sensors.

It seems to happen the same on all the ports, they all hold 20V steady but the amps drop to almost 0 when it goes in the case, I know it sounds super weird. See attached videos, the first two you see it going from .01 amps to .40 after pulling from case, the last one you see it going .39 amps...

Yes outside the case all 8 positions of the USB-C connections work. When I put it in the case and connect only the ports it stays at .01amp. I can actually lift it out of the case and watch the change happen live. I no longer suspect the crimping because it happens with a loose port laying flat...

I'm having a super weird issue with an 820-00850 A1989, that pulls 20v .01 amps. The board is very clean, and when I remove it from case it pulls 20V .60 amps no problem. When I put the logic board back in the case the problem instantly returns down to .01 amp, this is with nothing plugged in...

Yeah I tried bypass no luck. PP3V3_SUS looks normal but anything PP1V_S0 and PP1V_S3 related seems off. PP1V2_S3 = .082 V diode PP1V2_S3 = 160 ohm PP1V2_S0SW = .082 V diode PP1V2_S0SW = 160 ohm PP1V0_SUS = .052 V diode PP1V0_SUS = 117 ohm PP1V8_S3 = .194 V diode PP1V8_S3 = 18 K ohm Should I...

Came in with light corrosion around the edges and the usual places, replaced two of the CD3215's and one of their FET's to restore 20V, u7000 area was looking pretty rough so I replaced it for reliability if nothing else. Charger only pulls .01-.03 amps. at U8200 PP3V3_SUS = 0V PM_SLP_SUS_L =...

Replaced Q3200, area no longer hot and the port's is now getting 20V, but the port only works when the USB-C is plugged in one way, if I take the plug and flip it over and plug it in "upside down" I get nothing, not even 5.2V. Not sure if this was happening before (though I didn't think so) had...

Okay so the port started to work intermittently, reading on the PPBUS_G3H look normal, and diode mode readings seem to match across all four IC's, I did notice the Q3200 is getting really hot and I'm pretty sure that's the issue which makes sense. My question is whats the best way to deal with...

It's the USB-C port where the charge port used to be, top left when viewing the laptop normally. Its probably the jack that was used most for charging because of its legacy positioning. The weird thing is that all the other ports work correctly I thought if there was problems with the CD3215 it...

Board is clean, no liquid a or signs of drop damage. Everything seems to work well except the back left USB-C port does not charge the battery or power the computer, though it works fine as a data port. The other 3 USB-C ports take a charge and operate normally. I'm assuming this has something...

Lately we've been seeing Retina replacement LCD's (full assembly) that are noticeably dimmer then the original OEM. Anyone have any idea what is exactly is causing this issue, is there such thing as an inferior backlight they are using? could it be knockoff LP154WT1 inside? Is it possible its...

Thanks for the reply, what your saying is totally correct, and my initial and current position as well. As you probably know working direct with Chinese suppliers is a constant struggle, the economies are always completely backwards, quality seems to go down with each proceeding order and...

We're exploring options for repairing/replacing 15" MacBook Retina LCD's and are looking for some kind of machinery to make the process easier and more consistent. Does anyone have experience using a freezing separator for this (something like the one below)...