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Wow, that is cool. Didn't know you could get spare boards for macbooks. I get donor boards for my game consoles so I guess that makes sense. Only problem is not knowing what is good and bad on the boards...
They remove all RAM chips and CPU.
SMC is always in place and the only option to get SMC replacment; because it has firmware and is board dependant.
Lot of MOSFETs, caps and other small chips...
That is awesome. I'll order some. I always read the most reliable boards were somewhere around 2015, but not sure. I think they said non-retina too, but any one I see on ebay always are retina.
By the way, I'm pretty positive that one of the issues, if not the main issue is the LCD connector. I say that because when I went to look at the video cable as you told me to do I noticed that on one side it looked like some plastic was missing. I looked inside the connector and a chunk of it had melted together inside the connector. Probably when the water hit it I think. I'll order a couple just in case something sets it off again to melt it.
So, going to order the connector now to get it here the fastest. Going to be later this week that I post an update at the soonest.
Thanks again for all your help so far. I'll talk to you later this week or early next week.
I've replaced the lcd connector, but had issues due to the corrosion and ended up with 3 damaged pads. Ran wire and have continuity but still no backlight.
I've gone ahead and ordered a replacement lcd just so that I can have that ruled out by default since I no longer have the good board to use. I'll let you know once it arrives and ready to test again.
Remember I never had an image on the internal lcd. All I saw before on the cracked screen was the backlight working when I still had the good board. I was never able to see the image because the screen was cracked too much.
I did have an image before, but I only had an image only on the hdmi port and the display ports.
The screen I ordered was for an early 2015 retina a1502, I'm assuming it is 100% compatible.
Once I replaced the lcd connector and the replacement screen came in, I went back through everything you told me the first time. I got to where you told me to check the voltage at D7710 pins from before. There was 0V on D7710. So then you said, "With 0V on BKLT_SD, you should have voltage on D7710; post both pins voltage. " But now I have 12.4V on BKLT_SD.
Now you are saying that BKLT_EN_R is high... Is BKLT_SD the same as BKLT_EN_R?
Cause I didn't check BKLT_EN_R voltage...
I'm really confused now... and so close to giving up and going back to fixing game consoles. It was so much easier.
I have 3.3v at PP3V3_S0_EDP_R and I have 5V at 28-30 of J8300.
I started looking at the current sense and looking at boardview vs the schematic, which I can't read very well, but I think boardview and the schematic shows there should be a U5450. On my board, I don't have a U5450, I only have 6 pads and half a solder point is missing on pin 6 and solder on pins 1 and 2 look terrible.
Schematic does not say "no stuff" for u5450 that I can see.
Is u5450 missing?
BTW I think someone worked on this board before I got it... I say that because there's just some other weird stuff I've seen already. Scratch marks on the PCB etc.
"I2C_BKLT_SCL = 5V and 1.84
I2C_BKLT_SDA = 3.3V and 1.82"
You should get same voltage on both lines; check w/ and w/o LCD connected.
Be sure all 4 resistors R7750-53 are good.
"I2C_TCON_SCL or SDA - couldn't be found in boardview"
Seeing which connector pins are, easy to find them on boardview.
Sometime Apple doesn't keep identical signal names on boardview, like in schematic!
"when voltage is running it drops to OL."
Diode mode with power???
I hope not...
Do you have now the same voltage on both I2C_BKLT_SCKA/SDA?
I don't know when you posted voltage, or diode mode.
Remember, diode mode always red probe to ground.